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The Breacon Beacons had a wide range of walking terrain. There is surely a walk to suit every type of walker.
On our first visit to the Beacons, we decided to go for Waterfalls. The Fforest Fawn area is infamous for stunningly wild falls, so we focussed our search for walks here. We have always loved waterfalls and after a very stormy spring and a down pour the entire week before, we knew that the waterfalls would be wilder with the swell of water coming through. Just the way we like it.
The four waterfalls walk is a very popular and well-known walk. There is ample parking over a few different car parks and the route is well marked out. The route we decided on was a little over 8km.
We parked at Cwm Porth car park, the road to this car park has a one-way system due to its access being a very narrow road. This means that you will be leaving the car park from a different direction to which you came, trust the road signs.
We arrived at the car park in the early afternoon having driven up from Devon. The day had started out very miserable and wet but as soon as we reached Wales, the sky brightened up. As did Dan’s mood as we drove past the Penderyn Whiskey Distillery!
As we ate lunch on the benches in the car park, we were introduced to some very friendly and hungry birds, mainly bull finches. They fluttered uncertainly before plonking themselves next to us on the picnic table. Just looking to see if we were eating anything particularly interesting. It was beautiful to see how confident they were in our company. In fact, all the birds on this walk were willing to come very close to us. If we were to come here again, I would be bringing along a pack of seeds and meal worms for them. I have a feeling other walkers must do the same in this particular area.
We started the walk by scooting behind the visitors centre along a straight even path which eventually got rockier underfoot. Parts of the original path were closed due to bad storms, so we followed a well-marked alternate route. We walked a little way not seeing any waterfall but hearing it quite clearly. As the roaring of the water got louder, we arrived at a crossroads path with a rocky way leading to Sgwd Clun-Gwyn. A very swollen, two stepped waterfall. We caught it at its full glory. The sheer sound of the crashing water meant we had to shout to be heard.
We went on to Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, walking above the gorge it fell into. To get to Sgwd y Pannwr, we descended a large number of steps, weaving between sessile oaks. Tramping over a wooden bridge at the bottom, we found ourselves at the same level as the river Afon Mellte. Stood on a large rust orange, sandy river bed. We stepped over ancient tree roots to see the waters falling away below us. The increased swell of waters meant the river swept past us on two plateaus of differing height. Water from the higher falling into the lower, before both tumbling down and flowing right immediately after plunging to the base of the waterfall. This frenzied marrying of the water and varied direction of flow only added to the perilous feeling you have when standing there, at the head of the falls.
Here we took some time looking in the side pools and rocky crevices which served as back waters to the violent river. Swept into these and experiencing a temporary calm from the frothy flood waters, throngs of tadpoles and small fish were found. The deluge of water having stolen them from ponds further up the river.
Walking along the river, against the flow, we followed a thin boarded path. Here we saw the cascading waters of the Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, the second of the falls, but this time from the bottom. As the boards ended, we picked our way down a small trail, broken with large river worn rocks. It eventually led to a prominent ridge jutting out from the river merely feet away from the falls. We took some time here taking photos as the view was stunning. Framed with mature trees, tier upon tier of waterfall could be seen. White like a treacherous wedding cake with the uppermost tier only just visible in the distance. This is when the heavens decided to open again, so we made our way back through the rocky part of the path to the boarded walk before it got too slippery.
Having exhausted ourselves on the return journey up the steps to get back on the main trail. I wasn’t looking forward to another similar descent to view Sgwd-yr-Eira, even though we knew it was the most famous of the four. But by the time we got to the top of the steps, the thrashing song of the falls acted like a siren. Tempting you down to her formidable waters.
These steps weren’t as numerous as the ones before, but the unevenness of them was still challenging on the knees. Sgwd-yr-Eira is best known for its ability to walk behind the fall. Used in times-gone-by as a route to move cattle and livestock over the river. I had visions in my head of the scene in Disney’s Robin Hood, of Maid Marion and Robin’s tryst behind the waterfall. But on closer inspection. The route to the falls was far too immersed and the waterfall itself was too powerful for a romantic foray behind its veil. The fern lined ravine we found ourselves in had a holy feeling and we spent some time just standing, staring. Entranced in the beauty of the ‘Snow Waterfall’.
Following the rest of the 4 falls trail, the sun decided to rear its head once more and we were able to take off the waterproofs. There are over 200 types of mosses, lichens, liverworts and ferns in this area. The path was draped in every shade of green. Little pools with their own slow trickle of fresh, crystal clear water was dotted at intervals along the side of the path and really drew the eye. On closer inspection they were inhabited by a myriad of water creatures. The amount of wildlife on this walk makes it a really great experience in late spring/ early summer.
